From Markets to Montalcino - and our smiling God
Shopping, I’m sure most of you will agree, is never a bad idea, and my nose fairly itches at the suggestion of a market! So we took Angela’s advice and drove to the coastal town of Orbetello on Saturday morning to join the fun. There were stalls selling shoes, clothing, household utensils, plants, and handbags – even balls of wool and sewing notions. Families strolled up and down, and the purveyors of cured meats and the fruitsellers did a brisk trade. The sun shone intermittently, sparkling on the water, and then dark clouds would roll in threatening rain, then pass by a few minutes later. Sitting beside the lagoon I captured the dramatic sky reflecting some of these moods on camera.
We bought ourselves panninis filled with roast pork and decided to find somewhere more peaceful to picnic. Orbetello is situated on a narrow spit of land joining the mainland to a small almost-island called Monte Argentario. Across there we drove along a panoramic road that winds round above high cliffs where spectacular mansions perch on the steep slope overlooking a vivid blue ocean.
We ate our panninis sitting on concrete steps beside the boat harbour of Porto Sant’Stefano with the water lapping against the sea wall. Back home that would have been an immediate invitation to every seagull for miles around to move in for any scraps, but here there was not a seagull in sight. We ate our delicious picnic in peace, bought gelatis and went for a stroll along to another cluster of market stalls beside the harbour. This one was much more interesting, selling handcrafted jewellery, antique furniture, and antique napery. There was even a fellow snoozing in a banana chair hoping his life-sized ceramic dogs and other animals lined up along the pavement might sell themselves!
Having spent much of our time keeping up with Italian racing car drivers on high-speed autostradas, Boak decided yesterday that we should take some of the more tranquil back roads and go in search of that picture-postcard Tuscan scenery we all know so well.
I’m convinced that God smiles on Italy on Sundays! We’ve spent three Sundays in this country, and every one has been a stand-out day as far as the weather’s concerned. On our first, in Rome, the rain miraculously cleared overnight, after bucketing down for a week. Last Sunday, after a week of crisp (though fine) days, it was hot enough for a t-shirt and beach umbrella as I sat out the front reading while our overnight houseguests Matt and Michelle basked in the sun on the grass. And yesterday, after a week of indecisive damp weather, was one of those magical sunny autumn days when it’s just good to be alive. I think He’s still grinning today – not a breath of wind is stirring the trees, the sun is shining, and the only sounds are from little twittering birds. Even the shooters, who make an early morning walk a risky business, have left for now.
Our destination was Montalcino, north of here and home of the famous red Brunello di Montalcino wine. Also home of ex-Australian Isabella Dusi, author of two books about Montalcino,“Vanilla Beans and Brodo” and “Bel Vino” (which I’m currently reading).
We found the postcard scenery, the rolling hills greener than you’d believe, lines of cypresses, silvery grey olive trees and earth-coloured farmhouses perched on top of hills. The fields of sunflowers were dead, ready for harvesting their seeds, and the corn and poppies had all been plowed under, leaving fields of chocolate soil, but there were bright splashes of colour everywhere nevertheless. Ruby creepers festoon stone walls, the leaves on the woodland trees fairly glow from bright yellow to orange, and huge expanses of vineyards are a mellow golden colour. Spectacular!
Montalcino is my very favourite village so far. It’s cheerful, clean and picturesque, an ancient hilltown that is obviously loved by its citizens. Every second shop seems to be an enotica (wine-seller) peddling the wondrous Brunello, but the shops selling ‘tourist tat’ are noticeably absent. Handcraft shops sell watercolour scenes of Tuscany painted by local artists, hand-carved olive wood items, hand crafted jewellery, leather goods (at such cheap prices), and fine china (not just the colourful Tuscan ceramics we’ve seen everywhere). There were even three gorgeous quilted wallhangings of Tuscan hillside scenes in one shop – but at 1,300 Euros I resisted!
We had a caffe in the little main square, went for a wander to find some of the landmarks described in Isabella Dusi’s book, tasted and bought 2 bottles of Brunello to have with our pasta back here at Manciano, and enjoyed a light lunch, washed down with a glass of Brunello – which cost more than the food! - in a restaurant with a panoramic view out over the valley.
The Abate Sant’Antimo (Abbey of Saint Antimo) was on our way home, and since I had read about it in Isabella Dusi’s book I wanted to find it. Well, you can’t miss it! An enormous structure glowing in the afternoon sun, and dating back to 800, it rises in the middle of nowhere, at the end of a tree-lined drive from the main road, surrounded by olive trees, some more than 1000 years old! It was derelict for many years, the magnificent building home to cows and sheep, ducks and farm machinery, but after restoration about 30 years ago it is now maintained by a community of 4 French monks who grow olives and grapes and lavender, conduct Mass in the various churches in Montalcino - and run a bookstore selling memorabilia!
For dinner back here we opened one of the bottles of Brunello to accompany our aquacotta (a hearty, traditional Tuscan soup – out of a jar – to which you add an egg and a slice of bread ). Yummmm…..
We bought ourselves panninis filled with roast pork and decided to find somewhere more peaceful to picnic. Orbetello is situated on a narrow spit of land joining the mainland to a small almost-island called Monte Argentario. Across there we drove along a panoramic road that winds round above high cliffs where spectacular mansions perch on the steep slope overlooking a vivid blue ocean.
We ate our panninis sitting on concrete steps beside the boat harbour of Porto Sant’Stefano with the water lapping against the sea wall. Back home that would have been an immediate invitation to every seagull for miles around to move in for any scraps, but here there was not a seagull in sight. We ate our delicious picnic in peace, bought gelatis and went for a stroll along to another cluster of market stalls beside the harbour. This one was much more interesting, selling handcrafted jewellery, antique furniture, and antique napery. There was even a fellow snoozing in a banana chair hoping his life-sized ceramic dogs and other animals lined up along the pavement might sell themselves!
Having spent much of our time keeping up with Italian racing car drivers on high-speed autostradas, Boak decided yesterday that we should take some of the more tranquil back roads and go in search of that picture-postcard Tuscan scenery we all know so well.
I’m convinced that God smiles on Italy on Sundays! We’ve spent three Sundays in this country, and every one has been a stand-out day as far as the weather’s concerned. On our first, in Rome, the rain miraculously cleared overnight, after bucketing down for a week. Last Sunday, after a week of crisp (though fine) days, it was hot enough for a t-shirt and beach umbrella as I sat out the front reading while our overnight houseguests Matt and Michelle basked in the sun on the grass. And yesterday, after a week of indecisive damp weather, was one of those magical sunny autumn days when it’s just good to be alive. I think He’s still grinning today – not a breath of wind is stirring the trees, the sun is shining, and the only sounds are from little twittering birds. Even the shooters, who make an early morning walk a risky business, have left for now.
Our destination was Montalcino, north of here and home of the famous red Brunello di Montalcino wine. Also home of ex-Australian Isabella Dusi, author of two books about Montalcino,“Vanilla Beans and Brodo” and “Bel Vino” (which I’m currently reading).
We found the postcard scenery, the rolling hills greener than you’d believe, lines of cypresses, silvery grey olive trees and earth-coloured farmhouses perched on top of hills. The fields of sunflowers were dead, ready for harvesting their seeds, and the corn and poppies had all been plowed under, leaving fields of chocolate soil, but there were bright splashes of colour everywhere nevertheless. Ruby creepers festoon stone walls, the leaves on the woodland trees fairly glow from bright yellow to orange, and huge expanses of vineyards are a mellow golden colour. Spectacular!
Montalcino is my very favourite village so far. It’s cheerful, clean and picturesque, an ancient hilltown that is obviously loved by its citizens. Every second shop seems to be an enotica (wine-seller) peddling the wondrous Brunello, but the shops selling ‘tourist tat’ are noticeably absent. Handcraft shops sell watercolour scenes of Tuscany painted by local artists, hand-carved olive wood items, hand crafted jewellery, leather goods (at such cheap prices), and fine china (not just the colourful Tuscan ceramics we’ve seen everywhere). There were even three gorgeous quilted wallhangings of Tuscan hillside scenes in one shop – but at 1,300 Euros I resisted!
We had a caffe in the little main square, went for a wander to find some of the landmarks described in Isabella Dusi’s book, tasted and bought 2 bottles of Brunello to have with our pasta back here at Manciano, and enjoyed a light lunch, washed down with a glass of Brunello – which cost more than the food! - in a restaurant with a panoramic view out over the valley.
The Abate Sant’Antimo (Abbey of Saint Antimo) was on our way home, and since I had read about it in Isabella Dusi’s book I wanted to find it. Well, you can’t miss it! An enormous structure glowing in the afternoon sun, and dating back to 800, it rises in the middle of nowhere, at the end of a tree-lined drive from the main road, surrounded by olive trees, some more than 1000 years old! It was derelict for many years, the magnificent building home to cows and sheep, ducks and farm machinery, but after restoration about 30 years ago it is now maintained by a community of 4 French monks who grow olives and grapes and lavender, conduct Mass in the various churches in Montalcino - and run a bookstore selling memorabilia!
For dinner back here we opened one of the bottles of Brunello to accompany our aquacotta (a hearty, traditional Tuscan soup – out of a jar – to which you add an egg and a slice of bread ). Yummmm…..
posted by Di at 7:41 AM
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